September 2, 2023, Twin Falls CG to Takakkaw Falls Backcountry Parking Lot, 14.2 km, 657 m elevation gain, 795 m elevation loss, 4 hr 32 minutes.
The campground was fairly quiet. There were just 4 groups of campers. We were easily the first up and the first to leave. This was easily the least interaction we have had in a campground for a long time. Even though there were people in camp it felt quite lonely.
We left the campground just after 8 am and it was a quick 1.4 km scamper up to Twin Falls on good trails with nice switchbacks. The falls at Twin Falls are amazing but I find arriving at Twin Falls to be quite depressing. Upon arrival you are greeted by the iconic Twin Falls Lodge. The lodge was built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1908 and converted to a lodge in 1923. Unfortunately the lodge has fallen into disrepair over the last few years highlighted by a long battle with the former operator of 57 years and Parks Canada. The Alpine Club of Canada took over the operation of the lodge including repairing and updating but have since left the project with the following update posted on their website.
As we passed by the lodge on this day there was various construction equipment, ladders, tarps etc, littered around the area. The longer the lodge stays unused the more challenging it will be to resurrect it. Maybe that is the goal of Parks Canada.
We spent about 10 minutes at the taking in the falls before heading out back on trail. It is obvious but the trail up to to top of Twin Falls and onto the Whaleback has to make it way through the massive cliffs that give Twin Falls their height. The trail construction is among the finest in the national parks anywhere. While the trail does rise over 200 m in just 1.2 km it never feels steep and I never felt exposed. With Margaux in the lead we made it to the top of the cliffs in 20 minutes.
I love the view from the top of Twin Falls. The elevated view across the valley is just stunning. The view today was a little hazy with some smoke blowing in. This is as far as I had ever come previously. The trail up and over the Whaleback would be all new for me and of course for Margs.
Once over the creek the trail takes a hard right. We (I) missed it and followed a little trail into the forest. We wandered aimlessly for a of minute before I realized we were not heading in the correct direction. A quick about face and we were back on the correct trail.
We arrived at the high point for the day at 10 am, having hiked 6.2 km in 1hr 45 min rising 450 m. Time for a break.
There was a monument at the top of the trail for Jean Sharp who was killed in an avalanche in 1962. The monument was erected by The Varsity Outdoor Club is a University of British Columbia club which is still active today. The tribute to Jean Sharp is on the first few pages of club’s journal that I found online.
The high point with a stunning view across the valley is is just a little way off the main trail. I made Margaux lie down and take a rest after all the exertion of the climb. I did not have my backpacking chair with me so I just sat on the grass beside her. We hung out for 20 minutes taking in what was left of the view as the smoke started to creep in. Despite the smoke the view was still awe inspiring. As we were starting our descent we ran into three hikers coming up the trail from Little Yoho Valley. They only paused for a little conversation seemingly in a rush to continue to their destination which was a scramble to the peak of Whaleback Mt.
The trail down into the Little Yoho Valley was steep and abrupt. I lost count of the many switchbacks we did. We passed by a couple hiking with a small dog. They carried their dog passed us and Margaux showed very little interest. Near the bottom we met a young couple who were already suffering with the climb. I gave them some encouraging words to keep persevering as the view from the top was worth the effort.
The trail down the Little Yoho Valley to Laughing Falls is a wooded walk with little in the way of views. Being late morning we did encounter several groups of hikers. Margaux was very well behaved and received a lot of praise from the various hikers. I appeared to be an afterthought attached to the star that is Margaux by a tether so I don’t get lost. We arrived at Laughing Falls CG at 11:45 am. We had traveled 10 km in 3 1/2 hrs.
It is a pretty easy 4.3 km hike back to the car from Laughing Falls. We did stop for a chat with two young tourists who were concerned about bears and using their bear spray. I tried my best to impress on them that the trails where quite safe but the bear spray was a great idea. I also gave them a few tips on how to discharge the bear spray in the event of an attack. I have never used bear spray on the trail but did attend a Wild Smart seminar on how to properly use bear spray. Afterwards I did not read any reports of bear attacks from Yoho NP so I guess they had safe day on the trail.
As we approached the car I was wracking my brain on what to do next. The plan was to pick up the food and beer that was chillin in the cooler and continue on to Yoho Lake. The smoke that was rolling in was quickly snuffing out my desire to spend more time on trail. I really hated the idea of not camping when I had the time and the permit but I really did not feel motivated to spend time in the smoke. Margaux sort of tipped the scales for me as she rushed up to the car and quickly made for her door to be let in. I know if I would have repacked my backpack and continued on Margaux would have happily come with me but she seemed pretty content in the car. I threw the backpack in the back of the car and in a dejected mood got in the car and headed home.
A little tradition we or maybe I have started is stopping in at Castle Mt Chalets for treats on the way home after a trip into the backcountry. I picked up a rawhide donut for Margaux and a Coke for me. Heading back onto the on ramp to the Trans Canada I picked up a solo backpacking trying to get back to Calgary. He had been hiking the Sawback with his dad but his dad had left a couple of days early leaving him without a ride. He had hitchhiked before in the Rockies and was confident he could get a ride back to Calgary. I took him to gasoline alley in Canmore where he was sure he could get a ride the rest of the way.
We arrived home just after 3 pm which made the entire trip about 24 hours. Margaux quickly went to lay on her couch working on her recovery.
It was a bit of a quick trip but time spent in the backcountry is always time well spent. Margaux is getting very relaxed when backpacking and she already has multiple trips planned for 2024.