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Day 4 Grand Canyon Hermit – South Kaibab

View from Tonto Trail approaching South Kaibab Trail: Tonto Platform in the foreground, the Inner Gorge with Bright Angel North below and Cheops Pyramid in the distance.

Indian Garden to South Kaibab Trailhead

Distance 13.4 km Elevation Gain 1150 m, Elevation Loss 200m, Time 6 hrs 5 min

Our earliest wake-up of the trip, it was still dark when we got out of the tent at 5:45am. After a hot breakfast, a coffee and a quick stop at the nicest restrooms on the trip, we exited Indian Garden at 7:04am.

It is dark and we are up
10/10 for the toilet
Time to leave Indian Garden

Many people leave Indian Garden and hike to the rim via the Bright Angel Trail. We both prefer South Kaibab Trail over Bright Angel. Bright Angel travels deep inside a canyon (Bright Angel Canyon) and does not offer great view of the inner canyon. South Kaibab hikes up and over O’Neill Butte and along Cedar Ridge, affording expansive views of the inner canyon. Plus exiting using the South Kaibab would allow us to further explore the Tonto Trail and extend our time in the canyon.

Down the Bright Angel Trail, Shiva Temple on the horizon to the right.

It is approximately 6.5 km to Tip Off, the junction between South Kaibab Trail and Tonto Trail, from Bright Angel Campground. The net elevation gain is about 130 m, but like the day before, traversing the Tonto Platform requires hiking into and out of smaller side canyons.

It is cool and shady as we leave Indian Garden, but we’re prepared for the sun.

It takes about 5 minutes to backtrack down the Bright Angel trail to the intersection with the Tonto East Trail. This section of the trail is not as well travelled as other sections, as most hikers choose one of the corridor trails or descend down to Phantom Ranch. It was a very pleasant hike, walking under the cliffs of Grandeur Point and in and around a couple of drainages.



Leaving the Bright Angel Trail for Tonto East.

As we exited Bright Angel Canyon, the sun was already rising over O’Neill Butte in the distance, so we stopped to put on sunscreen. Even in early spring, the sun can get hot and intense in the canyon.

Sun rising over O’Neill Butte and Cedar Ridge in the distance.
Directly ahead is a silhouette of our destination: O’Neill Butte and Cedar Ridge leading up to the rim of the Grand Canyon. On the left is Zoroaster Temple (looking like a shark’s fin) and Brahma Temple.



After only 1.6 km of hiking we came to our first drainage of the day. On the topo map, it looks like an insignificant feature in the landscape. While the trail skirts by the very head of the drainage, the drainage opens into a large side canyon, joining with Pipe Creek, eventually connecting to Garden Creek.

The first drainage. Left to right Cheops Pyramid, Brahma Temple, Zoroaster Temple.

As we continued eastward along the Tonto Platform, scattered throughout the landscape were large boulders. These must have be remnants of rock falls from the cliffs above. It was interesting that we did not see similar boulders along other sections of the Tonto Trail.

Boulder on the Tonto.

In just under a kilometre, at the 2.4 km mark, we entered into a large side drainage of Pipe Creek. This was a small oasis, with large trees and more plant life than on the main trail, but no visible water was present.

Happy Hiker, Frosty Paws enjoying the view.
The second drainage.
Cactus blooming
A very dry drainage.

Pipe Creek has carved a large canyon into the Tonto Platform. We had to head close under the cliffs of the Grand Canyon to pass by. Like the previous water sources, there was an abundance of plant life, very good sized trees, and a small amount of water. There was a short climb right up a small spring; we actually got our boots muddy! As we left Pipe Creek, we came out right beside O’Neill Butte, but we had to hike back to the river to get around the butte to the switchbacks on the east side. We had hiked 3.7 km in 1 hour 20 minutes and had just under 3 km to go to get to the junction with the South Kaibab Trail.

Looking at the head of the Pipe Creek drainage.
Heading into the oasis. These are the largest trees we have seen other than Indian Garden.
Getting our boots muddy on the Tonto Trail.

We made good time hiking. We did stop regularly to snack, knowing that the real work was ahead of us. We were not rushing, but enjoying our time hiking the Tonto Trail.

Leaving the side canyon carved by Pipe Creek.
Splashes of colour along the trail.
Finishing off our snacks, good that the trip is coming to an end.
Trail cuts up to the right. View to the north side.

After 5.3 km and about 1 hour 55 minutes since we left camp, we came over a slight rise, marked by a very dead tree, and the view to the north opened up. In front of us was what I believed to be Cheops Pyramid, to our right was Zoroaster Temple and Brahma Temple, and we could see Bright Angel Canyon (north). A few more steps took us back to the edge of the inner canyon, where we could see down to Phantom Ranch, highlighted by the green vegetation contrasting with the red and brown rocks.

Dead Tree, marking the top of a small rise.
Zoroaster and Brahma Temple.
Looking down into the gorge, the green at bottom marks Phantom Ranch.

A short little climb through some switchbacks and we arrived at the junction with the South Kaibab Trail. It was 2 ½ hours and 6.5 km since we had left our campsite at Indian Garden. We were now on somewhat familiar ground, as we had hiked down the South Kaibab on our first visit to the Grand Canyon in 2011, but this time we would be going up. There was a wonderful toilet (big and clean!) that we took the time to use prior to starting our hike uphill. According to the sign posted on the information board, we had 7.1 km and 994 m of elevation to gain to finish our hike.

A couple of switchbacks as we gain some elevation.
Getting around to the front of O’Neill Butte.
The approach to Tip Off, and a nice toilet. Zoroaster Temple prominent on the horizon.
Arrival at Tip Off
The toilet structure, taking the “King’s advice”

The hike to the trailhead can be nicely broken into three stages. The first stage is from the Tonto Trail to the Skelton Point, 2.3 km and 372 m of elevation. Then a walk along Cedar Ridge, 2.4 km and a deceptive 274 m of elevation gain. Then the final stage is the climb to the trail head of 2.7 km and 348 m of elevation.

I feel welcome.

To start the climb onto O’Neill Butte, we had to traverse to the east side. The trail up is well defined and is frequented by mule trains. Mules walk in single file and create a soft rut in the middle of the trail. This makes the walking slightly more difficult since it is hard to push off in the sand and get a solid thrust forward.

Getting set for the hike up.
The rut left by the mule trains.
The trail is now soft with steps.
Zoroaster Temple! Brahma Temple peaking over from behind.

The National Park Service has done a lot of work to protect the trail from the impact of the mules. Frequent steps have been put in to prevent erosion, and parts of the trail on the switchbacks in the Redwall Limestone have stones inlaid like natural paving stones. The switchbacks make the gradient up very manageable; they are after all graded for the mules.

Looking up to O’Neill Butte. Trail runner up the trail.
Emily taking in the view. Notice the paving stone trail. It is going to be steep for a bit.

We stopped and looked east, trying to spot where the Tonto Trail cuts across the landscape. We were very successful in doing this when looking west, but looking east, we could see no sign of the trail.

No sign of the Tonto Trail. Wotans Throne centre, with Vishnu Temple in the far distance. On the very right is Patti Butte.

We arrived atop the switchbacks in just over 40 minutes after leaving the Tonto Trail.

We came from way down there.
Nice sign
Looking east, Patti Butte the small knob in front of us, Newton Butte to the right.

We had a mule train in front of us, so we popped through a hole in the cliff to have a snack and take a view westward to see where we had been. We could clearly see the trail leading into Indian Garden and in the distance Dana Butte. We then posed for an old time selfie, propping the camera on some rocks and using a timer. Some ravens flew overhead, riding the thermals. We stopped to watch them for a few minutes as the birds bobbed and weaved in the air currents.

Mule Train. Let’s look over here.
Amazing view to the west.
Selfie
Happy ravens riding the thermals.

One last look down at the switchbacks and it was time to keep heading up. The very next part of the trail featured some of the greatest exposure on the trip. The trail is a good five to six feet wide, but then the cliff drops all the way to the Tonto Platform.

You can see a supply train heading down, and a parks worker doing maintenance on the trail.
Yes Emily, it’s a steep drop.

We arrived at Skeleton Point, covering the 2.3 km in 1 hour 10 minutes. We stopped to look back across to the north side, we see Zoroaster Temple with Brahma Temple right behind it. Time to focus our energies on the next section, the long traverse of Cedar Ridge.

The trail briefly flattens out.
Arrived.
Looking north to Zoroaster Temple and Brahma Temple.

The trail starts out heading straight for O’Neill Butte. The path has a gentle grade and the National Park Service has lined it with stones to keep foot travel contained to a small path. Just before turning left to head around the east side of O’Neill Butte, we took a look westward. The Tonto Trail can easily be seen slicing across the Tonto Platform.

Path leading to O’Neill Butte
Looking west, you can see the Tonto Trail cutting across the green of the Tonto Platform. Dana Butte is in the distance.

The elevation gain was steady and relentless. The soil was very loose, like walking in sand. Steps were positioned regularly on the trail to prevent erosion, but were at odd intervals, making it difficult to get a constant rhythm to our stride. We passed many people going both ways, mostly day hikers attempting to get to Skeleton Point for a view.

Trail up around the butte.
The expansiveness of the Grand Canyon.

The view across to the northeast was dominated by Wotans Throne and Vishnu Temple, both towering over 2000 m in elevation, the Colorado River is about 750 m above sea level at this point.

The distinctive shape of Vishnu Temple and Wontan’s Throne just to the left.

Once past the butte, we came to a little plateau with a dead tree, a little ominous at this point. We continued climbing the east side of the ridge. Coming to the rest area called Cedar Ridge, looking back we could see that we had hiked up a lot of elevation as we passed by O’Neill Butte. It was exactly one hour since we left Skeleton Point. Only one small leg of our journey left, but first, lunch!

Steep, sandy and with steps. The hiking is getting challenging as we near the rest area on Cedar Ridge.

Dead tree. Placed to warm would-be hikers?
The rest area at Cedar Ridge is still quite high above O’Neill Butte. The dead tree was located at the notch just left of centre.

After a good lunch and some chocolate (Aero Bubbles, a staple on all our hikes), we leave the rest area and start on our last section of the hike.

A seat and some shade to enjoy a well-deserved rest.
The Aero Bubbles have melted and reformed into one big chocolate bar, easiest to just bite off a chunk.

A series of switchbacks took us up through the Coconino Sandstone, a tough cliff-forming layer of the Grand Canyon. We could easily see the cross beds of the ancient sand dunes preserved in the rock. The trail starts out reinforced by what could be described as natural paving stones. This gives a nice solid surface to push off of. Soon the trail goes back to the loose sandy base, contained within the steps. The trail is a dark red/orange colour as we rise through the sandstone layer. As we approached Ooh Aah Point, we passed into the Toroweap Formation, and the colour of the trail returned to a sandy tan.

Looking back to the rest area at Cedar Rapids. You can trace the South Kaibab Trail back around O’Neill Butte, across Skeleton Point, and the switchbacks down through the Redwall Limestone.
The paving stone reinforced trail.
Another view of the South Kailbab Trail
Note the red colour of the trail. The cross beds of the Coconino Sandstone are evident in the cliff beside Emily.
Ooh Aah Point. The trail is back to being a sandy/tan colour. Lots of people.

Looking back, we felt as though we were being chased by the mule train we first encountered on the way up to Skeleton Point. It took less than 20 minutes to arrive at Ooh Aah Point, covering 1 km and 165 m of elevation gain, not much hiking left to do. Ooh Aah Point offers amazing views of the inner canyon and is a prime viewing point for people coming down from the rim. With the crowds thick at Ooh Aah, I only stopped to take a quick photo with the camera and then we pushed on to the top.

Getting close to the edge at Ooh Aah Point
The mules are still chasing us. Colour change in the trail is evident.

A nice traverse through the Toroweap Formation followed. Arriving at the very top layer of the Grand Canyon, the Kaibab Limestone, the traverse abruptly changed into a series of switchbacks cut into the hard limestone cliffs. We arrived at the trail head at 1:08pm, 35 minutes since Ooh Aah Point. Our adventure in the Grand Canyon was complete. It had been 6 hours and 5 minutes since we left Indian Garden.

Entering the final switchbacks up through the Kaibab Limestone
Nice sign at the top.
Map of hike today.

My poor feet.

Grand Canyon Hermit – South Kaibab Home

bootwreckers

Pondering the pleasures of the hike. Mt Assiniboin Pondering the pleasures of the hike. Mt Assiniboine and Lake Magog.

The first 3 days of my 10 hike on the Great Divide Trail, Section C, with Emily are summarized and up our my website, see link in Bio.

Fun addition to the summary is that we have included some of Emily's thoughts in the summary. Fun to see how she sees life on the trail.

Hope you the enjoy the summary nearly as much as we enjoyed th hike.

#greatdivide #greatdividetrail #gdt #parkscanada #parks #bcparks #trails #longdistancehike #longtrail #outdoors #outside #thruhike #hike #thruhiking #canada
My second trip to Yoho NP last year was a 3 day tr My second trip to Yoho NP last year was a 3 day trip featuring the Iceline and Twin Falls with @sio.mellors 

Great weather, great company, great adventure. 

Full trip report on my website, link in Bio.

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #rockwall #backpacking, #yohonationalpark #yoho #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #travelbcp #snow #waterfall #waterfalls #waterfallphotography
New hike posted to Bootwreckers, see link in Bio. New hike posted to Bootwreckers, see link in Bio.

Three day hike along the Rockwall in Kootenay NP early July, 2021. Camped at Helmet Falls and Tumbling Creek Campgrounds.

With a @neil.real.deal and @kbsymington 

Photo - crossing snowfield at Tumbling Pass, with Mount Gray at centre and Tumbling Peak and it's glacier in the distance.

Great early season three day hike.

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #rockwall #backpacking, #kootenaynationalpark #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #travelcolumbiavalley #travelbcp #snow
I wrote an article about not judging other hikers I wrote an article about not judging other hikers on the trail and it got published.

It is my first ever article. Was a fun little project.

See link in bio
Takakkaw Falls from th Incline Trail, Yoho NP. Ph Takakkaw Falls from th Incline Trail, Yoho NP.

Photos of Takakkaw Falls taken from the Iceline Trail.

1) 1.6 second exposure of the falls

2) view of the falls and the Daly Glacier that feeds the water to th falls

The Iceline Trail was a nice way to get a more unique view of the falls and with fewer people.

Morning of day 2 of amazing trip last summer with @sio.mellors 

Yoho NP

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #backpacking, #yohonationalpark #yoho #friendsofyoho #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #travelcolumbiavalley #travelbcp #falls #waterfallphotography #waterfall #waterfallsofinstagram
Going through some photos from summer 2020. I lik Going through some photos from summer 2020.

I liked this photo, captured the early morning at Yoho Lake CG on my trip with @sio.mellors 

Loved how the water grabbed th orange reflection off the bottom of the clouds as the sun just crested the horizon.

I enjoy getting up early when camping. Not only do I get to enjoy the peace and quiet of camp, but the light of the sun presents fleeting visual displays that are gone in moments.

Yoho NP

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #backpacking, #yohonationalpark #yoho #friendsofyoho #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #travelcolumbiavalley #travelbcp #sunrise #morning #sunrisephotography  #lake #reflection #reflections
View looking West over the Tonto Platform from the View looking West over the Tonto Platform from the South Kaibab Trail.

This April will be our 10 year anniversary of our first trip to the Grand Canyon.

It is truly one of my happy places, have visited five times and camped below the rim three times.

Looking to get back sometime soon, but good things are worth the wait.

#nps, #nationalparks, #slotcanyon, #hiking, #hikingadventures, #familytime, #camping, #campingadventures, #outdoors, #outside, #nature,  #FIndyourpark #landscape #landscapephotography #optoutside #nationalpark #desertphotography #grandcanyon #grandcanyonnationalpark #grandcanyonassociation #100yearsofgrand #100yearsofbeauty #100yearsofgrandcanyon
Sunday morning sunrise! There are perks for getti Sunday morning sunrise!

There are perks for getting up early on a Sunday to go grocery shopping, and the mountain sunrises are one of them.

Shot off my phone from the parking in downtown Canmore.

#sunrise #sunrisephotography #sunrise_sunset_photogroup #earth #outside #outdoors #naturephotography #nature #naturelovers #sky #skyphotography #sky_brilliance
No doubt 2020 was a prickly year, and 2021 has sta No doubt 2020 was a prickly year, and 2021 has started out a little rough.

Just like hiking, if we keep going we will see beauty in amongst the prickles, but we need to stay on the trail.

Here's to good times ahead.

From our hike last year Emily hiking among the cactii towards the feature we affectionately named the Thumb, Passage 16 on the Arizona Trail

#teamzpacks #zpacks #zpacksduplex #aztassociation #aztrail #aztrails #hike #loveazt #desertphotography #desert #hikingadventures #hikes #backpacking #camping #getoutside #familytime #traillife #aztassociation , #hiking, #hikingadventures, #familytime, #camping, #campingadventures, #outdoors, #outside, #nature,  #FIndyourpark #landscape #landscapephotography #optoutside  #rightnow #goparks #aztrails #aztrail #loveazt  #azt #arizonatrailassociation
Looking at a fun trip last summer through Yoho NP Looking at a fun trip last summer through Yoho NP with @sio.mellors 

Lots of waterfalls to see in the park, Laughing Falls is a fun and loud falls right off the main trail located surprisingly, next to Laughing Falls CG.

We stopped by on our way to Twin Falls CG after spending the day hiking the Iceline Trail

Like this photo of Siobhan getting close to the falls for her own picture. 

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #backpacking, #yohonationalpark #yoho #friendsofyoho #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #travelcolumbiavalley #travelbcp #waterfall #waterfall #waterfallphotography #waterfallsofinstagram
Haiduk Lake, Banff NP. Haiduk Lake is just beyond Haiduk Lake, Banff NP.

Haiduk Lake is just beyond Whistling Pass as you hike from Egypt Lake to Balls Pass Junction.

Very pretty Lake. We were lucky enough to pass by early in the morning as we hiked from Egypt Lake to Floe Lake during our #gdt hike this summer.

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #rockwall #backpacking #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #alpine #lifeelevated #getoutside #lifeonthetrail #britishcolumbia #gdt #greatdividetrail
#kananaskis #kananaskiscountry
Chasing th Aurora on Friday night at Lake Minnewan Chasing th Aurora on Friday night at Lake Minnewanka in Banff NP.

Sadly it did not come right out to play,  but was obviously a lot of light coming from th North East.

Always fun to be outside in a dark place to see th glory of the night sky.

#outside, #hiking #camping, #backpacking,
#adventure, #adventureoutside, #nature, #landscapephotography, #nobaddays, #adventureholiday, #hikingadventures, #astrophotography, #milkyway #kootenaylife #kootenaynationalpark #nationalpark #nationalparks
#parkscanada #northernlights #aurora #auroras #auroramax
Hiking the GDT Day 1. I was almost completely sa Hiking the GDT Day 1. 

I was almost completely satisfied with or trip on the Great Divide Trail when on Day 1 we finished the uphill to Turbine Canyon and popped out of the woods and saw this amazing alpine vista.

I remember remarking to Emily "this is why I hike"

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #rockwall #backpacking #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #alpine #lifeelevated #getoutside #lifeonthetrail #britishcolumbia #gdt #greatdividetrail
#kananaskis #kananaskiscountry
Morning from Floe Lake with Floe Peak selection of Morning from Floe Lake with Floe Peak selection off the mirror smooth waters.

Another amazing morning hiking the GDT.

Never get tired of Floe Lake, was my third visit and just a year after my previous visit.

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #rockwall #backpacking, #kootenaynationalpark #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #travelcolumbiavalley #travelbcp #flowers #getoutside #lifeonthetrail #britishcolumbia #gdt #greatdividetrail #goldenhour #goldenhourphotography #mirrorphotography #lake
Golden hour! Morning sun shining off of Tumbling Golden hour!

Morning sun shining off of Tumbling Glacier and the Rockwall. 

Waking up at Tumbling Creek Campground during my Great Divide Hike this summer. 

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #rockwall #backpacking, #kootenaynationalpark #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #travelcolumbiavalley #travelbcp #flowers #getoutside #lifeonthetrail #britishcolumbia #gdt #greatdividetrail #goldenhour #goldenhourphotography
Flower Field, Tumbling Pass, Kootenay NP. From la Flower Field, Tumbling Pass, Kootenay NP.

From last summer's Great Divide Trail hike. At th top of Tumbling Pass on the Rockwall, treated to a visual feast of colour.

Awesome day, epic hike.

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #rockwall #backpacking, #kootenaynationalpark #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #travelcolumbiavalley #travelbcp #flowers #getoutside #lifeonthetrail #britishcolumbia #gdt #greatdividetrail
As we head into winter, a shot from last spring at As we head into winter, a shot from last spring at the end of winter. The snow was just clearing from the trails, and flowers poking through to greet the warmth.

Heading out over Rockwall Pass, Kootenay NP, with @kbsymington  and @neil.real.deal .

Had some snowfields to cross, good day out on th trail

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #rockwall #backpacking, #kootenaynationalpark #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #travelcolumbiavalley #travelbcp #flowers #getoutside #lifeonthetrail #britishcolumbia
Fun photo from Twin Falls Campground in Yoho Natio Fun photo from Twin Falls Campground in Yoho National Park.

As night fell I was able to take some long exposure shots of Twin Falls Creek as it tumbles through the campground.

Fun 3 day trip with @sio.mellors.

#friends, #alberta, #parkscanada #backpacking, #yohonationalpark #yoho #friendsofyoho #nationalpark, #nationalparks, #mountains #naturephotography #travelcolumbiavalley #travelbcp #waterfall #rainbow #spectrum #hikingadventures #longexposure #longexposurephotography #river
Top of Guinns Pass, Kananaskis Country 2016 Guinn Top of Guinns Pass, Kananaskis Country 2016

Guinns Pass connects the valley with Ribbon Lake and Ribbon Creek and the valley with Lillian Lake and Galetea Creek. Stunning views in all directions from the top of the pass.

There is also a scramble up the connecting ridge to the east up to Guinns Peak and onto Mt Kidd South.

Great two days hiking with @emilysjumpinginpuddles

#hikingwithdogs, #hiking, #hikingdogsofinstagram, #outside, #kananaskiscountry, #kananaskis, #spcacanmore, #spcarescue, #snowyowlsleddogtours, #snowyowldogsledtours, #retiredsleddog, #retiredhusky, #backpacking, #tongueouttuesday, #canmore, #canmorealberta, #adventure,
Larch season is coming to an end in the Rockies, b Larch season is coming to an end in the Rockies, but last weekend we were treated to quite a display near Taylor Lake in Banff NP

#outside, #outsidethebox, #liveoutdoors, #liveoutsidethebox #naturephotography, #naturelovers,  #retiredhusky, #rescuer
#parkscanada #banffnationalpark #banffalberta #banffcanada #larches #fall #autumn
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